New in Town: The Stove

Inside this fully grown woman, is a little girl who still loves fancy tea parties complete with finger sandwiches and delicate sweets. There are a handful of places in Las Vegas where I can treat my inner child to the tea party of her dreams. This post is about the newest one of those places—The Stove. The Henderson restaurant opened a month ago and already is a happening hotspot (does anyone still say happening or hotspot? I guess there’s a seventy-year-old woman inside me right next to the little girl) for brunch.

The restaurant doesn’t take reservations for parties under six people, so expect to wait a while to be seated on the weekends. However, if you’re interested in Proper-Tea (the tea room experience) you are in luck! Proper-Tea is a separate section of the restaurant and they do accept reservations. I was able to snag one for myself and four other tea-inclined friends.

Large windows around the perimeter and light pistachio green walls give the restaurant a spacious air. There are fun details throughout, a selfie room (complete with accessories and sumptuous green curtain), colorful chandeliers, black textured accent walls. These touches highlight the eclectic atmosphere, making The Stove seem contemporary and lived-in all at once. The restaurant is named for the fond memories co-owners/chefs Scott Commings and Antonio Nunez have of times spent in their respective family kitchens, and how that time shaped them as people. It’s that warmth, and the design elements it inspired that keep The Stove from feeling too modern and sterile.

In the main room, the menu features brunch staples with a luxurious twist. A waffle is not just a waffle, it’s a Churro Waffle. Pancakes are not just pancakes, they’re Brie Pancakes. The classics are also available for the less adventurous (that’s a nice way of saying boring) foodies. Also evident in the menu is the Chefs’ passion for different cuisines. Their influences are not limited by borders and include Mexican, French, Canadian, Middle-Eastern, and Eastern-European inspirations. The approach is decidedly mix-and-match but none of the items seem out of place. Portion sizes are more than generous and are likely to keep you satisfied past lunch-time. Vegans and vegetarians are welcome to indulge in a decadent brunch as well, with options such as The Benedict Arnold; a rich vegan version of eggs benedict.

The Proper-Tea menu showcases two options: Proper Tea and Formal Tea. Both provide the expected accouterments, scones, crumpets, little finger sandwiches, and dainty desserts. In selecting the Proper Tea, however, you will also enjoy a choice of Salmon Bilinis or Charcuterie. Opt for the ‘Twisted Tea’ that combines loose leaf tea with alcohol, for that extra Sunday-Funday experience. With no option exceeding $28 (including the alcohol) you can relish an upscale affair without digging too deep into your wallet.

I chose the Formal-Tea—at $18 the most affordable option—and I’d like to say that I savored every tiny morsel on my pretty two-tiered dish. But honesty is the best policy, and the truth is that I was hungry and excited. This means I devoured the cucumber sandwich, hoovered the Madeleine, inhaled the brie and marmalade sandwich, and ravaged the blueberry scone. I know they were good, but I couldn’t in all good conscience tell you too much about their texture or flavor, I was too busy stuffing them all in my face. As always, I’m the epitome of lady-like composure.

One pastry that managed to slow me down was the crumpet. Warm and pliable, it was the perfect vehicle for the house strawberry jam. Once spread on the crumpet, the deep ruby hue dissolved into a molasses-like glimmer. The jam’s composition was silky, unlike any I’ve ever encountered before. Sweetness with a trace of tart mingled into the nooks and crannies of the crumpet, and ambled on my tongue before dissipating. This was the perfect counterpart to my tea—Earl Grey Crème.

Our waitress was about to list their vast selection of teas, but she got no further than the first one. I’ve had Early Grey Crème before, courtesy of Joy’s Teaspoon, and it’s my absolute favorite tea to drink. It has all the expected notes of regular Early Grey, the slight black bitterness cut with light citrus flavors, only better. The crème adds a subtle undertone of vanilla leaving a velvety honeyed aftertaste.  The experience is further enhanced by dainty cups and saucers. No two are alike, and their patterns display natural motifs in varying colors from muted to bright with dashes of gold. Drinking from the mismatched china reinforces the lived-in feeling created by the décor.

As I fondly recall the time at Proper-Tea I cannot think of a lovelier way to spend an afternoon. From the environment to the menu selections, the attentive service to the food and beverages, it all felt special and uplifting. Oh yeah, and the company was nice too. I look forward to my next visit, maybe I’ll take the little girl and the old lady.